7th July.

Not cold today, just fresh with the promise of rain. Unable to have a shower as showers locked until 8am. Why? The caravan parks vary so much. Some supply toilet paper, some don't. Some have plenty of hooks in the showers, most only have one if any. Some of soap holders, most don't. Most have showers where you have to push a button to get them to operate. That's fine, except some last 5 seconds if you are lucky before they stop, others a minute. Some you can adjust the water temperature, others you can't. So some are a nice temperature, some come out luke warm but it's cold by the time it gets to you and others are that hot you have trouble washing the soap off. Some have water pressure that just about pushes you out the door, others you have to stand flat agains the back wall to get wet. We are yet to come across one that is ideal. Don't get me wrong, we are still grateful to have running water to wash the sweat off, but...here's the rub. Most have large beautiful swimming pools that must cost the earth to operate. They appear to be used by about 5 percent of the park occupants but we all use the showers!!!!!!!!
My gripe for the day.

Off and not bothering with the GR trail today as it goes way out of the way and you have to use ladders and ropes to get down the cliff. So, unless I want to make 3 trips, down, up and back down with Annette's pack, it's find another way. On the bitumen road that turns to gravel that turns to a grassy lane that turns to this?

Hell did Karen have a say in our route today? Pushed on a bit and found a bit of a track and then it turns and goes the wrong way. Oops. Packs over the barbwire fence and off through the paddock. Found another track and down it until it started to resemble the overland track in Tasmania, more creek bed than track.

It soon becomes completely blocked by blackberries and wild roses, so it's back to the farmers paddock to find another lane which joins up to a bitumen lane. Started to rain lightly, straight down, not a breath of wind. You all know those days where it rains all day? Well it's starting to look like one of them, maybe. Annette suggests we put the pack covers on and I persuaded her that we sit it out under a walnut tree. (Every fourth tree)? A couple of minutes later it stops and we are off again to get miles from any shelter for it to start again. Finally get to shelter and now the tops of the packs, our hats, shirts and my shorts (don't ask) are wet. I didn't get a I told you so but I could sense it. Pack covers on and our new lighter, untested, wet weather gear out and on. The pants are great with long zippers which means they go on over the boots. Do we look cool? Well, I do. Off we go in the rain and the new gear is great. Light and even though we are working hard, hardly raising a sweat. Into the village of Autoire and checked out the church and discreetly left our packs in the church. Becoming a bit of a habit that. We think that you have to be pretty bad to nick something from our packs in church and you never know who just might be looking down on you. Found some interesting buildings.

Not far down the track and we stop for a bit to eat. Me and my new gear.

Off and then Annette's complaining of having a sore toe. Blister. I told her she was just winging today as the first thing this morning it was like, is that rain? And now it's her toe. Boy did I get it.

It's a long day when your feet are hurting so out with a pin and blister burst and on with a blister band aid and a bit of a hug to try to get back in the good books.

This is a communal bake house. The round bit at the back is just like an oversized pizza oven. No wonder Gretel could push the wicked witch in.

Arrived in Bretenoux and set up camp next to the river Le Cere. Lucky to spot a laundry on the way in so all the clothes given a proper wash.

6th July.

Slept in due to the late night. Didn't get up till 6.30am. Shower and breakfast and off at 7.30 for a long walk up to the top of the cliffs. Passed this on the way.

Then a road walk to visit a famous sink hole, the Gouffre de Padirac. Tired and hungry and not moving for anyone.

Arrived by 10.00. By the time we found where the GR trail left the area and we found a spot to hide the packs and walked back, the line of people waiting to get in was very long. Annette had a book to read and I typed up yesterday's blog and got today's up to date. Also was able to check emails and had one from felicity.

Still had a bit of a wait but the line behind us was now half again as long. Into the lift and down we went. Out and walked down steps and along a very long cavern to where there was another line of people. Just a short wait and into a boat to be rowed further along the cavern now. Out of the boat and a further walk along and up and over. Very pretty cave formations with plenty of dripping water. Huge high roofs and water up to 5 metres deep. Back in the boat for a ride back and then out into the bottom of the sinkhole.

Up to the top and decided to have lunch at a cafe, very ordinary. Back and happy to find packs were we had left them. Off on the trail again and into Loubressac where we were staying.

Checked into the caravan park and found a nice shady spot. Back into town to have a quick walk around. What would the building inspector say about this beam?

Annoyed by two stray dogs having a good time running around. When we went back to the caravan park we were unable to get rid of one of the dogs. Must have though we were going to be a free meal ticket. Got to the gate of the caravan park and stood there with the dog and the owner yelled at the dog then to her husband who charged the dog with a stick. We tried to apologise for bring the dog back but the owner said it happened all the time and they were a real nuisance in town. Next thing we heard a great big gunshot but found out it was only a fire cracker.

Pizza cooked in their pizza oven for dinner and off to bed for a good sleep.

5th July

Going to be hot today but had to catch the train at 8.38am so unable to get away early. Off the train at St. Dennis Martel and off walking to the la Dorgane rivers at 9 am. Far to late. Over the river on this narrow bridge.

All road walking today. Most of it in the shade with a few long stretches of hot sun. Check this out.

Into Carennac one of the beautiful villages. There were plenty of interesting buildings. I sat down and guarded the packs while Annette tore around checking it out taking snaps here and there. Very hot. Decided to stay at the local caravan park and return to check out the village in the evening. Back on with the packs and only a couple of more kilometres to the caravan park. Arrived hot and bothered to find an English couple running it and to Annette's joy a collection of books in English.

Tent up in a shady spot and the usual shower and clothes washed and out to dry. Into the pool for a lovely dip. Even had shady areas inside the pool fence which is a change.

Spent the rest of the afternoon either in the pool or updating the blog. Still too hot to do much else. Walked back into town at 8.45 pm and had a nice cold meat and salad for dinner. After, checked out the town and found some really interesting buildings.

Back to the caravan park and still too warm for bed so again tried to update the blog. Into the tent late and a warm night.

4th July.

Had a bit of a sleep in this morning and after breakfast off to the La Poste to post a parcel home. Found a 2kg box and asked the lady if it was the right one to post home and yes it was. She weighed the bag of items to send and they came to 1.75kgs but she didn't think they would fit into to the box. Boy, she doesn't know Annette when it means less weight. Got nearly all of it in and taped down and posted. All very quick, not like some other post offices. Supplies purchased and caught the train to Rocamadour or as near it as we could get.

Off on the train. It was a single carriage diesel and wasn't far from being a big bus. The driver sat up front where you could see him. Looked like it was could go either direction. Very comfortable and nice. Just the sort of thing that could go from Hamilton to Ararat.

Arrived at Padira-Rocamadour and off the train. Nothing there to tell you where this great village of Rocamadour or the camping ground were. Lucky we had looked it up on the computer so knew which direction to walk. Started off and spotted a walking sign to Rocamadour half hidden. Arrived in to a camping ground and picked a site as level as we could get on hard, dry rocky ground. Might be an interesting night. Walked the 3.5km track to Rocamadour. Some of it along a nice lane, some not so nice.

You couldn't use the land for much other than farming goats. Rocamadour is a medieval village built into the side off a cliff with a famous church. It has always been one of the sites visited by pilgrims as there was a some hermits body found there in 1166. From 1172, 126 miracles have been recorded. I told Annette they could record one more cause she got me there. The village was pretty from afar.

Once down there it was like Halls Gap on steroids. Every old building had the front ripped out and was opened up as a walk in shop. People every where and if you told me Walt Disney had it all built a few years ago I'd have had trouble disbelieving you. Not my type of place. If you want to see an old village that still looks old, go elsewhere or after all the people have gone.

Part of the church built under the overhang.

Annette went in to spend a euro and light a candle. A bad habit she picked up from Vince I think. I sat outside and put on my blind man pose to try to get it back.

A chapel that was near the top of the cliff in a cave. It went back some distance and may have been where the hermit lived. If it was he didn't have a bad view all those years ago.

Back to the camping site and now the tent is in the sun and it is hot. I don't know what happened to the forecast of heavy rain today. Maybe a storm will come up this evening.

3rd July.

Had a bit of a restless night in the tent, it being a bit warm with to much food and wine last night. There was also a pesky insect of some sort which had made it's way between the inner and outer of the tent and spent half the night buzzing around trying to get out. Also some other moron was playing loud music into the wee hours somewhere in town. Annette got up about 1.30 am to go to the toot and as it was dark out she nearly just nicked across in her teeshirt but decided at the last minute to put just a bit more on. Maybe it was lucky for as she got near the amenities block security lights came on lighting up the area like the MCG. I told her the security cameras probably also came on.Today we had a short walk to Figeac, only about 15 kilometres, must of it up and down for a change. Some of it along quite country roads with some interesting buildings. Shed find?

Some of it not so quite.

Check out this. A disabled fishing spot! What will they think of next.

Got into Figeac and checked out a hotel that included free wifi (turned out that it didn't work) and left our packs there. Were going to the camping ground but it was a further odd kilometre out of town. Off into town to explore the old city. Some really interesting buildings that had the top level open where they used to store cloth and dry out food supplies. Hard to believe that some of these buildings (or parts of) are 700 years old and still lived in.

Back to the hotel to find we are locked out till 4.30pm so we checked out the gare (railway) station to see about a train tomorrow. Very nice station where two lines join into one from both sides of the station. This leaves two platforms on both sides joining and the centre triangle was planted up into a garden. It was cool there so we sat and talked for a while.

Back to the hotel for a shower and change. Pretty enough view across the river towards the old town. Unable to access their Internet. When this has happened in the past it normally means that their computer system has a fault and has to be reset and then it works. Were they interested? No.

Annette has decided that her pack is too heavy? I suggested that it wasn't hers that was too heavy. Anyway, both packs completely turned out and sorted. A bit of this and that binned and a collection of clothes and assorted items to be posted home tomorrow. (If it is like Scotland last year, here comes the cold wet weather.)

Back to town and a very nice dinner at a restaurant. Tonight we shared two plates only. One a salad with a frozen tomato and basil sherbet (like ice-cream) ball. Would you believe it was delicious. The other a ham and potato dish with fried cheese sticks on top. Yum. We were pretty pleased with ourselves since it is still a bit of a guess from the French menu.

Off to the hotel and still no wifi working so an early night in preparation for a busy day tomorrow. No sure where we will end up camping. View from the hotel window.

2nd July.

Up early and hardly any dew on the tent, good. Going to be another clear sunny day promising to be rather hot this afternoon and since we don't know where exactly the next camping ground is we were on the road before 7 am. First walked along the river road exploring the hamlets as we passed through. Nothing open to get supplies or a drink.

Not 20 minutes out and Annette has been trying to find the spot where we saw the nudie yesterday. She has mentioned him a couple of time so I give her a dig about it. Leaving one village we caught up to two male pilgrims. Annette comments that it wasn't either of them. I ask her what is she talking about. Yep I should have guessed, the nudie. Exasperated, I ask her how did she figure that out. Her reply, with not a hint of mirth was, oh he was long and skinny. So she did get a good look at him after all???????
Saturday morning and it is so quiet. Nothing like home. Came to a promised unmanned information building and found a camping ground marked just the other side of the river. Good, as it is now hot and we are constantly swapping to the shady side of the road which is not a good thing when you still have to remind yourself which side the cars are coming from. Off back along another road and no camping sign at the road going over the river. Not looking good. Over the bridge and found the road off and still no camping signs or sign of camping ground. Seems to be common here, half the camping grounds on the maps are closed and there are plenty not shown on the maps.
Oh well, its onwards and up out of the valley to another town where we have googled a camping ground but it is not marked on any maps. Came across our first viper (snake). Only small and had been squished on the road but a reminder to check before collapsing on the grassy road side.

Hot, sweaty, (steady on boys), tired and cranky we finally make it in to town to collapse in the bus shelter. Again it's now after 1pm and nothing open. All closed for a long, long lunch. Bit of a rest and it still up hill and out of town (wrong direction for tomorrow's walk which always hurts) and finally found the camping ground. Small and very pleasant and luckily caught the nice lady before she locked up for the afternoon and she took pity on me and I soon had cold water, ice and cups. Actually it was probably what Annette looked like, although she told me that there was no shorts or bathers with pockets allowed in the pool and when I said speedos, she grinned and nodded her head. Oh well, looks like it's my black jocks again.
Tent set up in a nice shady spot, showered and clothes out to dry.

Annette crawled in and from the sounds of things soon asleep.

Order the 15euro menu deal for 2 for dinner. Very nice but way too much food. Not sure if the lady took pity on us because we were walking or if it was the norm but one would have been enough. Stated with half a melon, ham and bread. Next very large plate of mixed salad with ham and cheese sandwich and a quiche pie. Then yogurt cheese and more bread. Surely that was it. No, a couple of slices of an apple tart. All washed down by a bottle of wine and heaps of water. Enough food for two whole days. Lucky the tent was just around the corner.

1st July.

Up early again and whilst Annette had a shower I had the tent and gear all packed up. Off and an apple each for breakfast and along the road. Nice, cool and shady, got plenty of kilometres in before it began to heat up. Went past a round stone building. They look very old but I'm not sure what they were used for. (shepherds built these to live in and if the pickings were good they stayed and built a proper house) I climbed half way up the hill to get this photo.

Explored the villages along the way and found Saint Sulpice to have some interesting buildings. This one was ripe for a makeover.

Found the caravan park and booked in and had a well earned ice cream and drink. Stretched out along the river with plenty of shade but the mole hills have made most of the site too rough for us. Tent set up and off to have a look around the park and when we got over to the reception/pool area there were four young fellows there who were going to hire canoes and row down the river. Sounded like a very good idea and ten minutes later we were all kited up and off. They drove us for what seemed way to far to get back but the boys were going up to the next point so we figured they had to pass us if we got into too much trouble. Left at one of the drop off points and on our own.
Into the water and off. Not as bad as Annette thought it would be and after the first few small rapids and instructions from the back (me), of what not to do with the paddle when we got too close to a hazard (often), so I wouldn't cop it in the face we settled down.

It was a very pretty river and we throughly enjoyed ourselves and the afternoon went way too quick and we were doing every thing possible to drag it out except padding upstream (although once we were heading that way).

Peacefully gliding around a corner and all of a sudden all I can hear is pissst, pissst. I look over Annette's mad hand signals and there is a bloke sunbathing in the nuddie. Must have heard all the heavy breathing coming from the front of the canoe (not from her paddling thats for sure) cause he looked up and discreetly raised his leg. Next thing I'm paddling like mad on my right side to compensate for Annette's now strong strokes on her left side. Managed to just get past thanks to the bend in the river and on we go. Annette made a comment that she was very discrete and didn't look as we went past. Ha! About two minutes later Annette starts cursing and upon asking what was wrong she said that she forgot she was wearing her sunglasses and she could have had a really good look and he wouldn't have known. Serves her right. Finished before we wanted to and canoe dragged up on the bank.

Put the gear away and about 5 minutes later the boys arrive back. Clothes washed and hung up to dry and in the pool we go. After a few minutes in hop a couple of the young fellows. Here Annette says, eat you heart out Felicity. (She is having a pretty good day). Frozen pizza for dinner (from reception) and off to bed.